—Hideki Tobita, President of LEDER OGAWA Co.,Ltd.

Known as the “diamond of leather,” cordovan is prized for its gem-like sheen and luxuriously smooth texture. Harvested exclusively from the rump of select farm horses and produced through an exceptionally labor-intensive process, it remains one of the rarest and most valuable leathers in the world.

We visited LEDER OGAWA—one of the few tanneries in Japan that produces cordovan—to see the craft firsthand and learn more about the beautiful leather behind our Cordovan Collection.

As we enter the workshop, we first see the tanned cordovan hides that have been drying and aging for about two months. The next step for these hides is fatliquoring—the process of working oil back into the dried, tanned leather. This revives the fibers and restores softness and flexibility.

“It takes three to four minutes for each piece of leather to absorb the oil, and adjusting the speed of this process relies entirely on the craftsman’s experience and intuition. This step is extremely important; if the leather isn’t fully saturated with oil, its natural luster won’t emerge during the final glazing stage,” explains President Hideki Tobita.

Once fatliquoring is complete, the craftsmen use a scraper and warm water to stretch the leather further. Though simple at a glance, this is a highly demanding task that requires careful pressure control and a fine-tuned touch that greatly influences the final result.

The hides hanging from the rafters have completed the fatliquoring process. It’s an unusual and striking sight to see—fifty horsehides suspended in the air—but natural air-drying is essential for producing high-quality cordovan. Machine-drying would strip the hides of too much moisture, leaving the leather stiff. Air-drying preserves just the right amount, creating the firm, compact texture that defines true cordovan.

The smooth surface of cordovan leather comes from its innermost layer, known as the cordovan layer. To expose it, craftsmen carefully operate a powerful shaving machine that removes the upper layers of the hide. The machine’s force is so strong that maintaining steady footing and balance is essential. While keeping a stable posture is challenging, experienced artisans work with precision and speed. But shave too much, and the hide becomes unusable; it’s a tense, delicate process.

“Once the cordovan layer is exposed, the leather’s natural translucence becomes visible,” explains President Tobita. This process demands the artisan’s careful judgment, guided by a trained eye to recognize the cordovan layer as it appears, and precise pacing. Machines cannot replicate this skill—it relies entirely on the eyes and hands of a master craftsman. The result is leather that feels exceptionally smooth, offering a natural warmth and a subtle, indescribable beauty found in no other material.

The final step is a process called glazing. A hard agate stone is mounted on the machine and moved continuously back and forth across the leather to polish it, with pressure controlled via a foot pedal. Too much pressure can burn the leather, while too little renders the process ineffective.

"Once you do it for a long time, you learn to adjust the amount of force to match the unique characteristics of each piece of leather—whether a hide is on the slightly dryer side, or is fully oiled," shares the craftsman.

The leather is scorching hot right after polishing. The friction flattens the fibers that stood upright on the surface, revealing a remarkable luster.

"Without this heat, the color and shine wouldn’t emerge. It takes a lot of pressure to bring out the leather’s true beauty!"

"The more you take good care of it, the more beautiful it becomes," shares President Tobita. As the finishing work is done, the craftsmen handle each hide with thoughtful attention—almost as if they are having a final conversation with the leather before it moves on to the dyeing process.

“I’ve always wanted to create something truly exceptional; something whose quality speaks for itself. The first time I saw cordovan after processing, I was struck by its unreal beauty. I've learned over the years that leather tanning is a demanding craft; one that requires immense time, effort, and the culmination artisanal skill. Making something truly exceptional requires unwavering determination,” said President Hideki Tobita of Leder Ogawa, as he gently held up a freshly glazed piece of cordovan.